Middle East & Africa | Issaias’s army

Inside Eritrea, Africa’s gulag state

Shops are bare, youngsters hide to avoid conscription

ASMARA, ERITREA - AUGUST 21: Eritrean people in front of a building from the italian colonial times near the mosque, Central region, Asmara, Eritrea on August 21, 2019 in Asmara, Eritrea. (Photo by Eric Lafforgue/Art in All of Us/Corbis via Getty Images)
|ASMARA

In the corner of a quiet bar in Asmara, Eritrea’s capital, Mulugeta (not his real name) hatches a plan to escape. He has made contact with the people-smugglers who say they will arrange the crossing to Sudan. His older siblings in America have paid the fee. From Sudan, he will travel to Libya—and then to Europe. But his voice is hushed: in Eritrea a young man needs permission from the army to move freely. Mulugeta fears being conscripted and sent to fight in Ethiopia. He does not want to die in another country’s civil war.

This article appeared in the Middle East & Africa section of the print edition under the headline “Issaias’s army”

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