How the axolotl rose from obscurity to global stardom

The smog and noise of Mexico City feel a world away as flotillas of trajineras, brightly decorated wooden gondolas, glide up and down the cool canals of Xochimilco. The quiet network of waterways, on the southern edge of Mexico’s hectic capital, was built by the Aztecs long before the Spanish conquest. Farmers still grow kale, tomatoes and chillies on Xochimilco’s islands, though these days most Mexicans know the area as a weekend party spot to escape the heat of the city. Some boats carry troupes of mariachi with trumpets and guitars; others serve as floating cafés.