Looser rules for takeaway tipples

A MONG THE many emergency measures introduced by state governments when the covid-19 pandemic hit, one stood out for the jollity it heralded: a change in the law to allow bars and restaurants to sell cocktails-to-go. Within weeks, Americans were walking out of empty bars with drinks that reminded them of lost pleasures—Daniel Barreto, head bartender at Barmini in Washington, DC, says his greatest hit was the Polynesian Vacation, a blend of citrus vodka, fruit and yellow chartreuse. Despite open-container laws that prohibit drinking outside, many people developed an evening “walktail” (strolling and drinking) habit.