Middle East & Africa | Wake up and smell it

Kenyans are starting to drink their own coffee

Covid-19 has shown the value of a local market for local beans

|NAIROBI

IN A SINGLE room tucked away behind a petrol pump in central Nairobi, men toil over a whirling drum, a shiny metal rack and heaps of sacks marked “Produce of Kenya”. The coffee they roast sells for as much as $11 per 250 grams online. Out front at Spring Valley Coffee, the well-heeled brave the noise and fumes to sip flat whites topped with rippling hearts by a trendy young barista.

This article appeared in the Middle East & Africa section of the print edition under the headline “They’ve woken up and smelt it”

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