Europe | Charlemagne

Hopes for religious harmony come to life in the Muslim Vatican

Albania wants to put the “state” in “Islamic state”

A giant Baba Mundi stands with arms open wide on top of a Betkashi temple. On the ground is a customs barrier and a border checkpoint. A Bektashi Order flag flies next to the temple
Illustration: Peter Schrank

Charlemagne makes it a point to lay off heavy liquor until after lunch. But what if the booze being proffered is a mere thimble of raki, a fruity firewater Balkan hosts foist upon visitors in a gesture of hospitality? What if, furthermore, the host in question is a Muslim cleric, unexpectedly keen to lubricate your columnist as he explains the tenets of his faith while himself puffing away at a stubby cigar? And what if, finally and yet more improbably, the bottle-wielding holy man is soon to become the head of the world’s newest state, a diminutive Muslim sovereign enclave carved out of the low-rent suburbs of the capital of Albania? It was pushing noon after all. Perhaps a small shot.

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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “The Vatican, but make it Muslim”

From the October 19th 2024 edition

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