Europe | Sharp sadness

The mysterious French mustard shortage

Even Dijon has run out of its namesake sauce

A France supporter eats a hot dog prior to a quarter final match of the 2015 Rugby World Cup between New Zealand and France at the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, south Wales, on October 17, 2015. AFP PHOTO / LOIC VENANCERESTRICTED TO EDITORIAL USE, NO USE IN LIVE MATCH TRACKING SERVICES, TO BE USED AS NON-SEQUENTIAL STILLS (Photo credit should read LOIC VENANCE/AFP via Getty Images)
|DIJON

Dijon, the historic capital of Burgundy in France, might seem a good place to find a pot of the world-famous mustard that bears the city’s name. Since the spring supermarkets across France have run short of the sharp, pale-yellow condiment. Surely shops in Dijon, where the craft of the moutardier dates to 1634, must sell the stuff? “None,” says a shopkeeper, pointing to empty shelves: “A delivery this morning sold out within the hour.” “Ah non!” says another, “we haven’t had any for weeks.” In a third shop, an apologetic assistant suggests an alternative: a squeezable bottle of sauce from a manufacturer that boasts of creating “flavour experiences”. “It’s not Dijon mustard though,” he says regretfully. The brand is French’s—America’s favourite.

This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “The great French mustard shortage”

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