The black-cod theory of European integration
Warsaw’s restaurants show EU convergence is about more than just capital
FROM MONTE CARLO to Marbella to Milan, no glamorous destination is complete without a Nobu. The chain of gourmand-luring Japanese-Peruvian restaurants has become a staple in practically every tourist hotspot. In each location, a well-off clientele stuff themselves with chunks of black cod soaked in miso and yellowfin-tuna tartare while a DJ in expensive-looking spectacles plays unobtrusive house music.
This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “The black-cod theory of integration”
From the August 7th 2021 edition
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