Berliners see red

REMEMBER the Berlin Wall? Of course, but where was it? Germany's reinstated capital is rebuilding itself so fast that Berliners themselves cannot always recollect just where the awful thing ran. This would not bother them, except that these days hard-up Berlin helps make ends meet by luring tourists who want to catch a last glimpse of the cold war and whose first wish is to see where the wall was. So, to satisfy them, the city has devised a new east-west border--a red stripe painted through Berlin's heart along the route of the demolished wall.