Culture | World in a dish

In praise of mangoes

South Asia’s mangoes deserve a wider audience

A vendor arranges mangoes at a fruit market in the southern Indian city of Chennai.
Photograph: Reuters

“Hindustan is a country of few charms,” observed Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, after conquering India in the 16th century. The founder of the Mughal empire was unimpressed by the handicrafts, horses, markets, people—and especially the fruit. He complained constantly about the lack of decent melons. But even grumpy Babur could not deny the pleasures of mangoes, which “when good, are very good”. The mango, he concluded, is “the best fruit of Hindustan”.

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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Beneath the (ap)peal”

From the August 24th 2024 edition

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