How moussaka made it into the pantheon of Greek gastronomy
Patriotism revolutionised a classic dish
IN 1821 GREEK revolutionaries rose up against the Ottomans, setting off years of bloodshed that culminated in the creation of a free state in 1829. On March 25th each year Greeks celebrate Independence Day with parades and abundant feasts of bakaliaros skordalia, delicately battered cod with garlic dip.
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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “God of the Greek kitchen”
From the March 30th 2024 edition
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