Immigrants are changing Central Texas barbecue for the better
A dispatch from the world’s first “Tex-Ethiopian smokehouse”
CENTRAL TEXAS-STYLE barbecue joints have a particular aesthetic, born of history but now veering slightly into kitsch. Restaurants are often plain, with bare wood tables and chairs, along with a few well-chosen pieces of Texas-themed decor. Meat is minimally seasoned, smoked over hardwood and served on butcher paper with almost nothing else: perhaps a few Saltines, pickles or onion slices, and tiny cups of sauce and beans.
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This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “United Nations of the Lone Star State”
Culture June 3rd 2023
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- Jenny Erpenbeck’s new novel follows lovers in crumbling East Germany
- Immigrants are changing Central Texas barbecue for the better
- Ramesses the Great was a superb self-promoter
- Aleksander Kulisiewicz preserved the music of the Nazi camps
- The comic opera of England
From the June 3rd 2023 edition
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