Culture | World in a dish

The rise of chilli crisp is a study in how foods become fads

In lockdown, people in the West discovered an age-old Chinese condiment

REH0RN Hot Mexican Spicy Chili Red Sauce Salsa Macha with Red Pepper Powder in Jar. Traditional Organic Food.
Image: Alamy

For some, cooking during lockdowns was a chance to try out the kind of time-consuming, intricate food preparation that the rush of ordinary life makes impossible. Endless loaves of sourdough were produced, along with bubbling kombucha. For others, it was an experience of drudgery. Making three meals a day, especially if your diners included small children, was tedium defined—an endless loop of eggs and beans and eggs and toast and beans and toast and eggs.

This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Some like it hot”

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