Sohan gives a flavour of Iran’s complex contradictions
The sweet treat reflects a history in which the current theocracy is but one chapter
Most outsiders have only the haziest notion of Iranian cuisine. To much of the world, the Islamic Republic is still overwhelmingly a country only of religion and revolution, of protest and political repression. By contrast, the foods of Iran’s Middle Eastern neighbours have spread—not always unscathed—throughout the world. Falafel wraps are familiar fare in sandwich chains. Pots of hummus appear on the shelves of British petrol-station refrigerators; pumpkin-spice and chocolate versions menace shoppers at Trader Joe’s.
This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “Good as gold”
Culture November 12th 2022
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