Culture | World in a dish

On the curious and enduring appeal of Waffle House

The diners rarely close. For many in the South, they feel like home

W2GD90 Waffle House 24/7/365 restaurant at sunset in Snellville, Georgia. (USA)
|ACWORTH, GEORGIA

Pull off an interstate before dawn in the American South and, outside city centres, you enter a shuttered, ghostly world: darkened businesses, petrol stations devoid of cars, traffic lights flashing red and yellow over empty junctions. But if you are lucky, you may spot a beacon: “WAFFLE HOUSE” spelled out on giant yellow tiles that tower above the restaurant of that name. It will be warmly lit and, more important, open.

This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “South to a very old place”

How not to run a country

From the October 1st 2022 edition

Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents

Explore the edition

More from Culture

Theatre audience standing in formal attire, applauding.

Ovation inflation has spread from Broadway to London’s West End

Why do dud plays get standing ovations?

Christ and the Loving Soul, Illustration from Simon Critchley On Misticism

Are mystics kooks or valuable disrupters?

A realist’s refreshing take on mysticism


Little Red Riding Hood with the wolf, disguised as her grandmother. Illustration by Arthur Rackham (1867-1939), c1909.

Sex and Snow White: how Grimm should children’s books be?

The German authors suggest very, but today trends run the opposite way


Jimmy Lai’s trial is a headline-worthy example of injustice

A new biography aims to keep the public’s attention on the pro-democracy tycoon

Ten years after the Charlie Hebdo attack, satire is under siege

Public support is waning for the right to offend