On the curious and enduring appeal of Waffle House
The diners rarely close. For many in the South, they feel like home
Pull off an interstate before dawn in the American South and, outside city centres, you enter a shuttered, ghostly world: darkened businesses, petrol stations devoid of cars, traffic lights flashing red and yellow over empty junctions. But if you are lucky, you may spot a beacon: “WAFFLE HOUSE” spelled out on giant yellow tiles that tower above the restaurant of that name. It will be warmly lit and, more important, open.
This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline “South to a very old place”
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