China | Step aside, Ronald

How China is making the burger its own

Duck, pork, tofu—what will it be?

Two men eat at Tastien.
Digging in, Chinese styleImage: VCG

AT FIRST GLANCE, the burger appears like any other. But on closer inspection, something is different. Pressed between the buns is not a patty of minced beef, but morsels of roasted duck. The buns themselves are wrinkled and slightly charred. They are hand-rolled and made using traditional pastry-making techniques, says Tastien, the fast-food chain serving up this meal. If duck isn’t your thing, other options include fish-fragrant shredded pork and mapo tofu. Though not technically a hamburger, Tastien’s ads declare, “The Chinese hamburger is here!”

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This article appeared in the China section of the print edition under the headline “Step aside, Ronald”

From the January 20th 2024 edition

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