Britain | Bagehot

A weekend with Gareth Southgate and friends

England football fans abroad: soft boys playing at being hard men

An England fan with the full attire and a beer can in hand, looking at some abstract art
Illustration: Nate Kitch

On the 302 tram to Gelsenkirchen, a grim industrial city near the Rhine, a group of England fans are hammering the ceiling and chanting: “He comes from Barnsley/He plays in blue and white/He hates the Germans/He thinks they’re fucking shite/He’s breaking ankles, everywhere he goes/His name is Johnny, Johnny fucking Stones.” Then the tram pulls up to a stop named after Willy Brandt, a former West German chancellor. Singing about the English centre-back stops and a discussion of German historical trivia begins. “Shame his secretary was a spy,” says one of the chanters, displaying a surprisingly detailed knowledge of 1970s cold-war history.

Explore more

This article appeared in the Britain section of the print edition under the headline “England away”

From the July 6th 2024 edition

Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents

Explore the edition

More from Britain

Illustration of a middle aged man, sat by candle light reading “men’s heat pump health” with an energy meter and a picture of a heat pump on the table beside him

The rise of the Net-Zero Dad

Middle-aged men care less about the problem. But they love the solution 

Sunrise Over Tower Bridge.

Backing Heathrow expansion suggests Labour is serious about growth

It is the surest sign yet that the government is up for the fight



What the rise of bubble tea says about British high streets

A sugar rush from foreign students

Why Britain has fallen behind on road safety

More than 1,600 people still die each year in road collisions

Britain’s brokers are diversifying and becoming less British

London’s depleted stockmarket is forcing them to change